Dismantled village is Palamont

From the hills we perceived many villages in a plain to our right, and saw the ruins of one that had been destroyed not long before by a minister of the Porte, the inhabitants having refused, most likely from inability, to furnish a large sum of money which this avaricious and cruel tyrant had demanded. The name of this dismantled village is Palamont: it had been inhabited by about five hundred families, who were all put to the sword without distinction of age or sex. Thus do these devoted people frequently fall victims to the rapacity and relentless cruelty of barbarous and despotic tyrants, who under the mask of duty to their sovereign veil the most atrocious acts of cruelty and oppression.

After three hours’ ride at the rate ot about four miles an hour we arrived at a coffee-house, where our guide, Pauolo, advised us to stop in order to refresh ourselves and our mules. You meet very frequently with these houses in Turkey; and here the traveller may stop if he chooses, and be accommodated with coffee without sugar and a pipe. We entered a little cottage not unlike an Irish barn. It was built of mud and straw, and not more remarkable for its furniture within than its architecture without. The only moveables in the house [were] a couple of mats, on which we spread our repast ; and though we were surrounded by Turks, who were enjoying their pipes, we made an excellent meal on cold partridge which our good friend at Smyrna had packed up for us, with a liberal allowance of Madeira wine to last for our journey.

The first object that engaged my attention, after leaving our hotel, was a Burying-ground. It was surrounded, as all these places are, with lofty cypresses. I was much surprised at the sight of such an immense number of graves, most of them recently dug two-brothers: but I soon recollected that I was travelling through a country where the plague seldom intermits for any length of time : and upon inquiring I found that above one thousand of these graves had been made about four months back, when the plague raged at Smyrna, and in its vicinity.

These considerations for some time damped our spirits, and inspired us with gloomy and dismal ideas. Over each of these graves is a stone of about four feet in height, set upright and a turban carved on the top. They are painted in different colours, as red, white and green. Those who are honoured with the latter have their origin from Mahomet and call themselves his descendants. They are looked upon as of the same family and no others are permitted to have the green turban on their tombs after their decease.

We travelled for the remainder of the day over a fine country, the soil of which shewed everywhere marks or richness and fertility. The road, if we may give it that name, was very bad, and indeed not passable for carriages; but we saw no obstacles to impede the equestrian traveller, as the grounds were without enclosures. The greatest part of the country was planted with cotton trees, and those plantations were remarkably well cultivated and cleared of weeds, the cotton plants being set at equal distances of about three feet.

Towards evening we arrived at the summit of a very lofty mountain, from whence we discovered the extensive plain of Magnesia and could trace with the eye the winding course of the celebrated Meander. The town itself is at the distance of about six miles. We intended stopping at Magnesia for the night, and therefore made as much haste as we possibly could in order to have sufficient time to see the town.

My faithful Pauolo

On our arrival we found much difficulty in getting a lodging for the night. My faithful Pauolo at length obtained permission for us to lie under the gateway of a large court where the caravans put up. There was a little room without windows, which did not hold out to us the most pleasing prospect of the rest of our entertainment for the night. We had our beds spread on the ground, and sending Pauolo to buy us some provisions, we went, accompanied by a janissary to stroll about the town.

We did not perceive any vestige or monument of Magnesia having been once the seat of the Ottoman Court. The houses are ill built and mostly of wood ; the streets narrow and dirty. This had been the seat of the Eastern Empire, till, on the 19th of May 1453, Mahomet the second took Constantinople from Constantine Paleo- logus, and removed his Court to that celebrated city. Magnesia contains above one hundred thousand inhabitants, and next to Smyrna is the town of most trade in Turkey; being situated in one of the richest and most extensive plains in the universe. It has been distinguished for the fertility of its soil, and it is now one of the chief sources of supply to the cotton market of Smyrna.