Our final destination is Tayrona National Park, also on the
Caribbean coast – and getting there is an adventure in itself! After a
four-hour drive to Santa Marta and a quick change from local bus to private
transfer, we’re driven another hour and a half to the entrance of Tayrona.
We’re dropped as far as the van is permitted; at a dusty horse station. Now we
have a 45min walk through the bush to get to Arrecifes beach. For 17,000
Colombian Pesos (approx. $9 AUD) we hire a horse to take our big bags. The bags
are put into sacks and we’re pointed in the direction of the trail. The path is
well worn and we pass other walkers with varying accents – one of whom appears
on a ridge above us and warns of a pack of horses bearing down on us!
We quickly climb up off the path and sure enough, a porter
and five or six horses appear, moving at substantial pace along the narrow
trail. A tourist is sitting atop a horse so it would appear walking is optional
(for a price). We enjoy the hike, although even in the shade of the forest it’s
still very humid. The trail is not flat and thus challenging, but it’s scenic
and peaceful and the effort heightens the anticipation of arrival.
We make it to Arrecifes without our horse catching up, so we
can only assume (and hope!) he’ll appear with our bags in due time. We’re shown
to our bungalow and the sight of a large hammock on the porch makes me very
happy. The spacious 2-storey hut promises a relaxing end to the trip (…and our
bags do eventually arrive).
We walk to the beach, passing a colourful juice bar and
campsite for tents, and it’s quite a sight, surrounded by mountains, forest and
towering palm trees. However the waves are formidable and warning signs
indicate that it’s not safe for swimming, so we study our map and discover that
further down the beach, disguised by huge rocks, is a safe little cove.
The sun is setting so we head back to our bungalow, with
plans for a morning swim. We enjoy a delicious dinner at the on-site restaurant
(three courses, no less) and the next couple of days pass in a contented blur
of sleep-ins, hammocks reading, good food, walks along the beach and swims in
the cove, which has a bar and a couple of cute juice and ceviche stands.
All too soon it’s time to book a horse, saddle up the
backpacks and hike on out of there.
Tayrona National Park is stunningly beautiful, peaceful and remote; a
perfect end to our Colombian adventure. We’re picked up by the van and driven
to Santa Marta airport, where we fly back to Lima. Colombia is a fabulous
country of diverse landscapes and charming people; it’s South America’s
best-kept secret… go before everyone else catches on!